Quartzite, Arizona - April 2022

Miles Driven:

159.7 Miles Phoenix to Quartzite

Quartzite to Pirates Den and Back - 139 Miles

Quartzite to Yuma and Back - 188 Miles

Bumming around Quartzite - Maybe another 20

Quartzite - the Land of....well, not much.

Okay let’s try to do this a little more often shall we? My gosh, it’s been 2 weeks and change since we left, and already so much to talk about.

It’s fun retelling the things we do and see, but there is so much I miss, too. I fear though if I get an “online job” things won’t be worth talking about as much. The road getting there isn’t going to be short, though – and chances are I will have the remainder of the year at least, to talk and tell stories.

Being an Rver doesn’t mean constant vacation mode, and it takes some research and adaptation to be able to live this lifestyle. The roads are sometimes stressful and scary - especially on the open road. The weather is also a concern. The forecast for the Arizona desert has been in the high 90’s all week, So that meant, there may not be any boondocking for us.

On our first stop we wanted to check out Quartzite since it was close – and on our way basically to Las Vegas – somewhere Scott wanted to make sure we were on my birthday. Last year was low key and he felt like he wanted to do a big surprise for me for this one – since my last was my 50th. I told him this was BS and he didn’t need to. He said his dad left a little money, not much – and it was on him, and not to worry about it. Ugh ok. But I’m going to – just so you know.

Scott never found a place to recycle or get rid of about 10 gallons of old gas sitting in our Gas Pump – the one that you can refill your 4x4s and Motorcycles when you’re out in the wilderness but also runs our Generator.

We hadn’t run our generator since last spring, and he was worried the gas had gone bad. We searched several places to see if we could get rid of it with no luck. But, since the weather wasn’t going to be favorable anyway, boondocking was out. It’s just too hot and we’d have the run the generator WAY too much. Plus the price of gas – heck – we could pay for full hookups and still come out about even. I called around and found a spot with full hookups just south of Quartzite, instead. We could still check the surrounding area out and get a feel of what and how it is down there.

As we headed out of metro Phoenix – we had the A/C cranked and the kitty was screaming “I want out” I want out” “I want out” for a good portion of it. It’s been a while and she was a little pissed. I think both animals will be much happier where we’re going – instead of the concrete and no grass.

As we rolled through the miles – the western side of Arizona is all pretty blasé’. Gravel expanses with jaggedy toothed-topped mountains, and the occasional Saguaro patch, Cholla hillside, or miles and miles of Chaparral and Mesquite.

We came upon Quartzite and turned down the road to our spot. It was about 6 miles south of Quartzite, and we saw the long-term camping areas that had entrance shacks and bathrooms at the front. Weird. I thought it was just all open BLM land with no support. There were even dumpsters. But how do people get water all winter?

We passed a few 2-week limit areas, too, and then turned into our Campground. The hosts came out and one got on his 4-wheeler and took us to a different area they just acquired not long ago. We backed in and took up whatever spots we wanted. There wasn’t anyone else but 2 other campers there. It was hot, and most everyone had left for the season. It was blustery, and the dust rolled around the open fields and dirt scrubland to the north. It definitely was an unforgiving place.

We got set up and walked the dog over to the massive expanse of desert across from us. As we walked, I kicked a cactus with my shoe and it stuck. I looked around and there were teeny, tiny little dried-up cactuses all OVER the ground. Thousands of them. I said, “Oh shit, look.” The dog was finessing his way through them, but I was worried he was going to get something stuck and we had no pliers or anything to get it out. I’m not carrying a 100-pound dog back to the camper that far.

On our way back (we made it unscathed) and I looked down to see our shadow cast along the road. I looked up and it seemed to go on forever. I told Scott to freeze and I grabbed my phone and took a shot of our shadows on the ground. It was so right, so fitting. It made me smile.

I love the desert – but even down here it seems TOO dry. The little cactus that was all burnt and dried up concerned me. Many of the trees and shrubs were bare of leaves and looked dead. I’m SURE that it’s always been dry – but this seems extreme.

I couldn’t get the Wifi hooked up, and called the office. She assured me the password was right, and she’d get ahold of the Camp Host to come to assist me. He was a nice guy that looked a lot like his name was Ranger Rick. He had a ’70s mustache and a decent build of someone who looked like he could kick ass on a forest fire 30 years ago. He had the Ranger type Green floppy hat, and a shirt. He pointed out that I was typing in the password wrong. (Jesus, seriously?) What’s wrong with me – that is the DUMBEST mistake I could do. Gah.

He came in and sat on the couch for a bit and we chatted about how he’ll be up in Colorado – not far from home all summer work camping. Small world! We talked about seeing the sites, and He said he’d be back with a Quartzite road book that tells where all the interesting roads, mines, and other points of interest would be – just return it please when you’re done. He came back opened our camper door and tossed it in. “Here ya go!” Nearly made Odie shit himself – that guy is lucky Odie listens – he might not have a face if he did that without warning again!

The next day was spent driving around Quartzite. The first stop was through the big expanse of desert in front of us, to find the Petroglyphs and grinding stones. We’re ALWAYS looking for places to hike, so that seemed like a good place to start. We drove most of the way, got out, and started to walk in the sandy dry riverbed. This riverbed I bet was running water once. There were large stumps and other signs that it’s much drier here now than it used to be. Whether that was 100, 1000, or 10,000 years ago, I don’t know.

We found the Petroglyphs right away and judging from the height above the river bottom they were painted, I was probably right. Some of them – there was no way they could have gotten there unless there was water, and others were far up away from water – for they wanted all to see. Most of the Glyphs were that of Snakes, and other symbols I didn’t know. A person just rolling by would understand the information here though. The pile of rocks they were on had deep recesses and furrows that lead to cool cracks and shaded caves deep within. Evidence of rodents in the area made me realize this was probably a fairly large snake area – and could have been a snake den once. Were these petroglyphs a warning? “Large rattlesnake population here – be careful”

The Grinding stones took a little longer to find, but we finally did atop another larger hill with rocks jutting out of the side. The topside of these rocks were fairly smooth – not like the surrounding area that consisted mostly of crazy volcanic type rocks – and had several VERY deep holes ground down inside them. Some are deeper than others, and the amount of time it probably took for these to be created, was pretty amazing.

I stood there and tried to see what they saw while they ground – whatever it was they were grinding. The river was probably flowing. I could hear the kids playing and running all over the rocks while the men and women ground the grains or beans from the Palo Verde trees, and mesquite trees they had gathered. Most of the larger trees around here were dead, or non—existent, so in wetter years (comparatively, anyway) I’m sure there was plenty to be had. Also if these stones were here, there must have been a place close by they gathered their ingredients.

Sad it’s so bad now. I’m sure damming up the Colorado River is not helping matters. Nature has a domino effect, and the basin was not far from here. Maybe that had to do with the rainfall amounts decreasing here now. I don’t know. We walked around and looked at rock and plants, but it started to get hot already and the sand was hot for Odie’s feet. We headed back and climbed in the truck.

We headed into and realized that there was no one really left anymore. They all kind of roll out about the same time everyone else does in Mesa. Stores closed. No museum, or rock shops are open. We drove around and found the Cemetary – which has the grave of the famous Hi-Jolly. He was a Middle-Eastern Gent that was well renowned in the area.

From Roadside America.com

"In 1856, Secretary of War Jefferson Davis (later President of the Confederacy) had a novel idea: transporting freight and people across the desert Southwest on camels. He eventually imported over 70 of the beasts. Along with the first batch came a Syrian caretaker, Hadji Ali. His American masters called him Hi Jolly.

A plaque on Hi Jolly's tomb says of the camel experiment: "A fair trial might have resulted in complete success." But the Civil War intervened, Jefferson Davis changed jobs, and without his support the project was abandoned. The camels were set free to fend for themselves in the desert near Quartzsite."

We saw no Camels.

Hi Jolly remained, living into his seventies. The locals were so fond of him that, after he died, they spent several weeks building Hi Jolly a special pyramid tomb, made of multicolored petrified wood and quartz. It was dedicated on Jan. 4, 1903. Thirty-three years later the Arizona Highway Department came along and cemented a bronze plaque to the tomb, telling Hi Jolly's story, and topped the pyramid with a metal camel silhouette.

It was too hot for Odie to walk with us, so we got back in the truck and drove a little aimlessly. Not much to do. I found a Beer garden, so we headed towards that. It turned out that it was also closed for the season – and wasn’t much more than a tent and an old food truck trailer, surrounded by picnic tables. Scott’s like – wow. I’d like to see this place when there are actually people here.

“Well, “ I said. “How about we hop north and go to Havasu? It’s only about 40 minutes”.

By now an hour drive really isn’t that big of a deal for us – and we love looking at everything, so off we went. We had plans to go rockhounding to a few places that a geologist my Aunt and Uncle brought along one of our trips back in Phoenix, but with it being nearly 100 degrees by like 11 am we decided it wasn’t worth it this time. Plus Odie needs shoes. Does anyone have suggestions on GOOD hiking shoes for him? The ones I see never fit him well, and the ones I’ve bought before he runs out of them. Waste of time and money to buy those again.

We remembered my Parents talking about the Pirates Den when they came to Havasu, and that it was a cool place to go. We rolled up and parked and saw the sand rail/OTVs for rent. I looked at Scott and said, “I want to.” I walked over and inquired at the little booth what their rental would be. He said they were “$500 an hour, and a $2,000 deposit” I kept my cool, and asked a few other questions, and said “Thanks!” I walked away, sulking and shocked. What the fuck I thought. I can BUY an ATV and have just as much fun for THAT cost. Gawd.

We went to the open bar and got seated in the corner. The waitress brought Odie out a big ol bucket of ice water, and he buried his face in it – until I told him to chill out. He drinks that much he’ll puke, haha. We sent photos to my parents to see if they could guess where we were – and they did, kind of. Then they said if you’re there that’s where your Uncle (My Aunt’s husband’s) parents are in Winter!

OMG, that’s right. I hadn’t heard their names in years, so I said we’d look for them when we were done eating. We had a cold drink and a couple of burgers. It came out to be the SAME price we paid for our Prime Rib, and crème Brule at that Casino in Scottsdale. FAR from a gourmet meal. It was a good burger but it cost over $70 with the 2 drinks. Ok, we’re not doing this – eating out anymore after this. We can’t afford this crap.

We left and headed down to the water – then to the path that parallels the RVs. Mom said they are on the water someplace and gave me their last name. I walked for a bit but, again it was too hot for Odie to walk, so we ran back to the truck, got in, cranked the A/C, and drove to their spot. I hopped out and beat on the door – but no one was around. Their boat was gone, so they were probably out on the lake someplace. Darn!. I left them a note, saying hello, put it on their step, and left.

We decided to go a different way back to Quartzite, instead of the way we came so we could see some of the farmland that is in the delta formed by the Colorado River. It was pretty down in there, and there were several places for RVers we saw that were “Resorts” We noticed however people have been using that term more for advertising than for accuracy. The number of places that call themselves “resorts” then have ½ the park full of Permanent residents with pit bulls on chains, furniture in the grass, and overflowing trashcans is pretty astounding.

I touched on earlier that rolling into RV PARKS that have ½ the sites full with permanent RV residents, or trailer homes makes me uncomfortable. Walking the cat is a challenge, and we’ve already had issues with off-leash dogs coming after her. (Including our neighbor next to us in the Resort in Mesa. His dog did NOT like cats and was always off-leash. The moment he’d spot the cat under the trailer, he tried to come after her. Normally if the owners saw she was out they would leash him – and other times we had to go tell them, but one time he slipped up and the dog was up on me, while I was yanking the cat up by her leash and harness to protect her. Odie even got between us and escorted the dog back to his camper.

Another reason is I feel like I’m in their “Neighborhood” This is their home, and they know who comes and goes, and if their junk makes me uncomfortable – who cares, this is their park. We're just passing through, so THAT makes me feel bad about my opinions....ugh.....I always feel like I’m going to break some Taboo or see something I shouldn’t. Most of those people are not friendly, usually have too much junk everywhere, in which I’m afraid of Rodent problems, Flea problems, Roaches, attracting bears or trash pandas, and other issues bleeding over to us – and having to deal with it as we did on our property back home.

The adjoining properties on both sides of us were full of junk cars, unkempt weeds, tons of animals - and their feed, .....and rodent populations we worked for years to try to keep under control. I don’t have the energy to go through all that again. I may seem pretentious, and normal things – oddly enough – like scorpions or spiders, or bears I feel like comes with the territory – but I don’t want to roll into something that says “Resort”, Pay resort prices and find ducks in the swimming pool. (Think National Lampoon's Vacation) Value is going to shit everywhere, I swear.

Call it an RV park, charge rates equal to the surroundings and I won’t be as put off. Call it a Campground and have people living there for 10 years - I'm going to have a slight issue with it. Charge me $100 a night to park next to Billy Bob and their 16 children? Yeanothanks.

Sorry. Shouldn’t bash people for life choices, and I guess I have the power to move, right? I'm trying to be understanding, I really am. It's their park - but if you went to a hotel, and someone was living there permanently - with trash, and smells creeping their way into your room - you'd take issue with it. I see it no differently.

Anyway, I always follow along our route on Google maps, and I found a marker off the road that said “Blythe Intaglios” What's that?

I looked it up and they are the only Intaglios IN North America.

So what are they?

"The intaglios are located east of the Big Maria Mountains, about 15 miles (24 km) north of downtown Blythe, just west of U.S. Highway 95 near the Colorado River. The Blythe Intaglios are the most well-known of the over 200 intaglios in the Colorado Desert.[1] The Colorado Desert contains the only known desert intaglios in North America.[1] These intaglios are mostly located along the Colorado River."

You can read more about them HERE.

We navigated to the spot – and walked to the first one. It was a large figure, and an animal below him. They are in an area that has very dark rocks and pebbles on the surface, and lighter colored ones underneath. (It's an odd landscape) It has no plant life - or very litter. Whoever did it, just scooched the rock to the side with their feet, stomped them down nice and flat - and here it is hundreds, thousands of years later.

Scroll through the Images Below.

Leave it to idiots on 4-wheelers and motorcycles to ride over them with zero understanding of the historical significance and the importance to the local native people. They have fenced them off, finally, but it took until the 1980's to do it.

There are a total of six distinct figures in three locations (We only saw two) Largest being 171 feet “tall” Age is 2,000 to 450 years old. Unbelievable they have lasted that long. – Give you a LITTLE perspective of how long people have settled and lived in these areas, and taken care of the land. According to the Mohave and Quechans, the figures represent Mastamho – the Creator, and the Animals represent Hatakulya – a Mountain lion/person who helped in Creation. Sacred ceremonial dances were held in the area to Honor them.

I’ve never seen a deer or a Mountain lion anywhere near this area. Makes you think about how much lusher it must have been – at least by the water. These are so clear, and it’s not like they are deep cuts in the gravel. Literally an inch deep. I wonder if they had to do any sort of upkeep? Sure was hot and dry there.

It was too hot for Odie still so Scott and I took turns making the short walk to and from the figures. How cool was this to just happen upon?

That evening we walked the dog again and kitty – but only around the little RV park, and not the desert. It was a beautiful night. If it’s hot and ridiculous during the day – the nights are still perfect, and cool. I love the desert in spring. I REALLY do.

The next morning we got up and headed for Yuma. We figured if we were only an hour and a half away we might as well since nothing was going on in Quartzite. We passed a lot of desert – and roads seemingly to nowhere. There were a lot of trucks and traffic though, and we passed a “Proving Ground”

I had to look up what that meant – which is the US army’s area to test vehicles and weapons. This is the place to do it. Nothing here to destroy, lol.

We drove through Yuma – and lots of beautiful farmland, and to the border. Scott saw a side street and pulled over so we could take a photo of the “wall” It’s not finished – just past where we were at, but a quick survey on Google maps showed it continued all the way south of us and around the corner heading east.

We contemplated bringing the passports, but with Odie with us, we weren’t sure what he’d need, and if we’d come back with him – or the truck for that matter – so we decided against it. I wanted some fresh produce and it seemed like it was all in pretty good shape harvest-wise, so I got on google and looked for farm stands, and found a flea market type thing on our way out of town.

It was at the mall and the sort of thing I’d had done with my plants, seeds, herbs, and soaps years ago. I miss that.

Because it was still too hot for Odie to walk, I hopped out and bought a good amount of fresh produce and some goat's milk lotion that smelled amazing for about $20. As I was browsing, I strolled past this little old lady.

She was sitting in her chair with her beautiful beaded earrings, necklaces, and other jewelry. She was Most definitely native American. I asked her how she was, and she was eating a burrito. She said “Hungry!” I laughed and she smiled. I said “Tell me about your jewelry” She pointed out some things, and I said I loved the earrings. How much. Now I knew I wasn’t going to buy any. I had just spent my last $20 cash on food, and even though I desperately wanted them, I couldn't spend that much right now. She said $26. I paled. “Damn it. I just can’t” I told myself.

She then proceeded to tell me the white feathers on the earrings represented what her grandmother taught her, and they were the “Great White God” And that the two feathers beside them and lower were the people standing with the “Great White God”

My heart fell into my stomach. I thanked her and walked away.

I had to pee, so we hit Petsmart, found the Easter bunny and got Odie his photo with him, got Gas, and left.

Yuma is a pretty big city. I was NOT expecting how big, and modern it was. I was thinking more of a Quartzite type place, with the typical Southwest route 66 Rv parks and Motels with tumbleweeds, a few dusty old restaurants - the type you see the same people in every morning for coffee and conversation....and an old man with sun leathered skin in an old cowboy hat, smoking a pal-mal standing outside the quick-e-mart.

Not the case!

It was big and took a while to drive through. Nice town. We didn’t look for a museum or anything, as most times we can’t bring the dog, and it was WAY too hot for him to wait while we looked. The ride back was uneventful, and we got back to the trailer about dinnertime.

As I was cooking, my eyes started to well up. I told Scott I was pissed, and he asked “Why?”

I told him this beautiful Native American elder was willing to tell me a lie about her craft to sell me a pair of her earrings. I was angry that this was what they were reduced to – or at least thought they needed to, to be relevant to sell Native Jewelry to a White woman. She judged me by my skin that I was a Christian who needed to be told it was the “Great white god” represented in her work. I know this isn’t what they believe, or what their Grandmothers told them.

I wanted what it REALLY meant to her. Eagle feathers are highly prized, and I’m no expert, obviously, but I don’t think that’s what they meant. I wanted her legends…..What is YOUR belief? How was it relevant to YOU, and YOUR people? I want to support you, but I don’t want you to make me feel better thinking that I can’t wear something that honors another’s gods or beliefs. I highly respect the native culture and don’t want them to whitewash it, or Christianize it.

I wanted to take her beautiful old hands and tell her it’s OK, don’t tell me what I want to hear. I’ve envied Native Americans my entire life – wanting what they experienced way back before contact, and colonization. True life as it should be...... It just made me sad.

But I didn’t say any of it. I don’t know if she would have cared or got upset or whatever, so I just walked away.

I hope if by chance any Native Americans see this – they don’t hold contempt for me – maybe I misread the situation. Maybe that WAS her belief. I just don’t know what to say, or how to show support anymore.

I got the shame and tears out with it and went on with the night. We got some laundry done, and a stop in at the dog park for Odie, since he had been stuck in the car so much.

A lady there told us about how she was at a Quartzite RV park and had to move because all the meth heads were breaking into people’s RVs and cars.

Well yuk. That’s sucks. We’d love to come back and possibly just stay in the park we were at – seemed decent enough. But that's a big hell no to the ones in town apparently.

Ours had no-frills that’s for sure – but the Laundry was right there and it wasn’t far from town. Maybe we’ll be back sometime – and we’ll need to do it when the town is alive!

That night Scott saw a Coyote run through camp and hop a fence to the next property. There were also some little Quail running around camp - so I left out some water for them. We watched yet another still, perfect sunset over the mountains to the west and slept hard in the cool desert air.

We left the following day and headed North.